Day 11: Heading toward Purros—a paradise-like wilderness camp—(approx. 280 km)
Today was a long day of driving. We drove through the Hermann Valley via Orupembe to Purros, where we stayed for two nights at a charming, rustic camp (Puros Bush Lodge and Camp).
We came across a beautiful part of the Hartmann Valley; although it’s a rather desolate and sandy area, the vegetation is actually quite colorful after the rains in May and June.
During today’s drive, we kept passing these little stone piles. We’d already come across one every now and then over the past few days. In total, we saw nine of them.
Little stone piles = The “Lone Men” in the Kaokoveld.
To this day, no one knows the identity of the unknown artist who, since 2014, has placed around two dozen of these figures in remote regions. The figures consist of a welded iron wire frame filled with stones found locally in the desert. They strike different poses—some sit on cliffs, others seem to be hiking.
Each figure carries a message: a small aluminum plaque bearing a number and an often contemplative, poetic phrase.
We arrived at the camp around noon. Everyone was a little tired today from the heat and the long drive.
After we set up our tent and refueled the cars with gas from the spare can, we enjoyed the view of the Hoarusib riverbed.
Day 12: Hoarusib Valley – Desert Elephants & Antelopes – (approx. 50 km)
When we woke up early this morning and stumbled out of the tent, we could hardly believe our eyes. There were giraffe tracks all around us. Not only we, but also the others, hadn’t noticed a thing during the night.
After breakfast, we drove downstream along the Hoarusib River, not only to admire the breathtaking landscape but also to get to know the local wildlife. Normally, this area is home not only to oryx, springboks, ostriches, and desert elephants, but sometimes even desert lions can be found here.
But apart from springboks, giraffes, plenty of hyena tracks, and fresh lion tracks, once again we didn’t spot a single animal. Although the scent of the predators hung heavily in the air.
Before heading back to camp, we stopped by the village of Purros to buy drinks. And since Andi’s support vehicle had been losing air constantly today, he and his helpers took the opportunity to change the tire while the others were shopping.
The afternoon was free time.
After we finished doing laundry, I took advantage of the free time to explore the area.
Later, Dieter showed us two different ways to make bread very easily.
Day 13: Hoanib Riverbed & Game Drives – (approx. 180 km)
The route took us to the Hoanib. This arid region is not only rich in wildlife but also in sandy stretches. Large herds of various antelope species can be found here, as well as giraffes, and—if you’re lucky—leopards, black rhinos, and the rare desert elephants. It is one of the last remaining wild animal paradises.
We set up camp (Wild Camping Hoanib) at a suitable spot and spent the night in the absolute wilderness.
Weeks before the safari, I worried endlessly about camping in the wilderness. No toilets, no showers—what kind of creepy-crawlies would there be? Beforehand, I was really looking forward to the three nights at the lodge. Today, I can’t believe it myself that I—of all people—am saying this: the best time and the most amazing nights were the ones spent right in the wilderness. The lodge was totally overrated, and the camps were only worth it for the showers.
To round off the day, Dieter treated us all to a gin and tonic 😉
At the Hoanib River, the Kaokoland meets the Skeleton Coast in western Namibia; the 270-kilometer-long Hoanib River is one of the country’s last water oases and provides a refuge for numerous animals. Seventy-five percent of Namibia’s endemic species live here. Among them are the world’s most desert-adapted, free-roaming elephants, lions, and rhinos, as well as zebras, kudus, and giraffes. This is a truly extraordinary and impressive place.
This time we were lucky, and the elephants showed themselves in all their beauty. We also saw giraffes and baboons.
Day 14: Palmwag Camp – (approx. 250 km)
We continued our drive through the Hoanib, where we saw giraffes and ostriches again.
We made a quick stop in Sesfontein to adjust the tire pressure. Some of us used the time to grab a few drinks.
From Sesfontein, we drove back to Palmwag, where this time we stayed at the beautiful Palmenoase camp (Campsite Gondwana Collection Namibia) and prepared to return to civilization.
We pitched our tent right next to the car, enjoyed an iced coffee by the pool, watched the sunset in the evening, and later indulged in the buffet and cocktails to celebrate our 32nd wedding anniversary.
Day 15: Otjiwa Lodge – (approx. 300 km)
We reached Kamanjab via the Grootberg Pass. From there, the road was paved—we were back in civilization. We continued south at a brisk pace, passing through Outjo and Otjiwarongo. We stopped in Outjo to have lunch at a bakery. Among other things, we took the opportunity to pick up a souvenir for our WENNE. Using Makalani nuts, locals can carve the desired name in the blink of an eye onto a nut that’s already been carved with typical animals. No matter where you are in Namibia, you can find these nuts. In stores, you can buy them with various animal designs carved on them. In the cities, locals try their luck selling them on the street, constantly trying to persuade you to have your name carved right there on the spot. The price ranges from 1 to 3 euros.
Otjiwarongo means “place of fat cattle.” It is located near Etosha National Park and is a prosperous city with a suburban feel and numerous attractions. The city is known for its excellent conservation projects, which include several parks dedicated to the protection of big cats, such as the famous Cheetah Conservation Fund and the Crocodile Ranch.
Later that afternoon, we arrived at Otjiwa Lodge (Otjiwa Eagle’s Rest is located in the heart of Namibia’s oldest game farm and offers a peaceful retreat amid 10,000 hectares of pristine African bushland).
We enjoyed another game drive (the term dates back to the colonial era; “game” refers to big game and “drive” means a drive or safari) with a sundowner before we wrapped up our adventure comfortably at the lodge.
During the game drive, we were finally able to spot white rhinos, warthogs, kudus, oryx, and other animals
Today we also passed the veterinary fence, which is the longest fence in Namibia. It separates the northern regions from the southern parts of the country and serves to contain animal diseases. It also ensures that Namibia can maintain its status as a meat-exporting country. There are strict regulations at the checkpoints, such as the one at Oshivelo: for example, it is generally prohibited to transport raw or undercooked meat, as well as fresh animal products like milk and eggs, from the north to the south. Vehicles are searched at the checkpoints by police or officials. Prohibited goods must be surrendered, or you must turn back.
Exception: Meat that is thoroughly cooked or boiled.
We, too, were inspected and had to allow them to look inside our refrigerator.
Day 16: Farewell! – (approx. 290 km)
After one last leisurely breakfast and with the temperature at a cool 4°, we headed back to Windhoek. Those of us who had driven our own vehicles took them to Dieter’s house and unloaded them. Around noon, our unforgettable safari adventure came to an end.
We had a really great time, with lots of experiences, new impressions, and a wonderful group. Everyone had to do their part to make sure everything ran smoothly—like setting up tents, arranging tables and chairs, gathering firewood, helping prepare meals, washing dishes, and so on. In total, there were 13 of us, including Dieter, our guide. Nine people rode in the safari van, which Dieter drove, and two people each rode in the two support vehicles.
A truly diverse group with many different personalities, ranging in age from 50 to 80. Over time, we got to know one another, and for us personally, it’s always fascinating to hear the different life stories and motivations behind a trip, as well as the personal stories of the individuals we have the privilege of meeting. One story really touched us deeply and left us feeling sad. Even today, this story continues to weigh on our minds; it will surely stay with us for a long time to come. However, it showed us once again that we’re on the right path, that money isn’t the most important thing in life, and that our worries and problems are small and insignificant.
Dieter, our guide, was very pleased with the skills of our self-drive group and offered his praise. Because aside from Alex drifting into the riverbed once and getting stuck in the sand as a result, our car battery dying, Andi’s tire losing air at some point, and one person sustaining injuries to their face, arms, legs, and abdomen in a fall—which healed quickly thanks to good medical care—everything went smoothly.
IMPRESSIONS:
The concerns we’d had beforehand about spending nights in the wilderness without any sanitary facilities—that is, without a toilet, water, electricity, or light—were completely unnecessary, because those very nights (especially the ones spent just in a sleeping bag under the starry sky) were among the most beautiful for us.
But our African adventure in Namibia wasn’t quite over yet, because we had booked an extra week to process everything we’d experienced over the past few weeks and let it all sink in. A week to relax and enjoy ourselves once more before we headed back to Germany with heavy hearts—and before we can soon embark on another adventure with our WENNE. But we’re still a long way from that.
We had been thinking for a long time about whether we’d rather spend this week after the safari on the coast or at a lodge.
I briefly mentioned in my previous post that Alina from Outdoor Adventure Safaris in Namibia grew up on Kuzikus.
It piqued our curiosity, and we thought it was great what her parents had built up and what she and her siblings are continuing to do. So we decided against the coast. Getting to know life and work at a lodge and learning more about the conservation project and nature and species protection on Kuzikus is really interesting to us.
Kuzikus is a private nature reserve recognized by the Namibian government, located on the edge of the Kalahari. For over 45 years—and now in its second generation—Kuzikus has been committed to nature and species conservation. The reserve combines eco-tourism, education, and science directly with the preservation of natural biodiversity. It also offers guest rooms and a small Kalahari bush camp. A visit to Kuzikus supports the government’s conservation project for the critically endangered black rhinoceros.
The farm encompasses 10,000 hectares of protected Kalahari landscape. A diverse mosaic of camelthorn savannas, dunes, and limestone pans forms the basis for a high level of biodiversity. The name Kuzikus comes from the Nama language and means “hawthorn tree.”
In addition to rhinos, you’ll find many springboks, wildebeests, impalas, oryx, and kudus, as well as ostriches, zebras, plenty of rodents, warthogs and porcupines, scorpions, vultures, many other bird species, and much more. On the farm itself, you’ll frequently come across dogs, horses, and chickens.
Brand-new and recently opened, this specially designed astrofarm is dedicated to ambitious astrophotographers. Its secluded location, free from light pollution, with a dark sky and quiet conditions, offers ideal conditions for deep-sky and landscape astrophotography.
Seven sturdy astro-platforms have been built at Kuzikus, each featuring concrete pillars, power supply, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, and wind protection.
In addition to the founders, Hildrut and her husband Fritz, the two brothers Fritz Jr. and Berend live on the farm with their families; they are now the second generation to run the farm. The staff have their own accommodations nearby, in what is essentially a separate village. A little further away is the Bush Camp and additional lodging, where volunteers stay during their time there.
So after the safari, a shuttle took us there. As it happened, the other two self-drivers also came along to Kuzikus for a few more days. After a drive of just under 2.5 hours, we arrived and were greeted by Fritz. Later, we met Alina’s mom, Hildrud—an amazing woman who has found her calling here at Kuzikus. After we settled into our rooms, we were served coffee, tea, and homemade cake, just like every day at 3:30 p.m.
We were able to stay in one of the guest rooms for a few days, but unfortunately it wasn’t available for our entire stay, since starting on our fifth day, the guest rooms were reserved for a whole group of astronomy enthusiasts.
So we spent the last few days at the Kalahari Bush Camp, 1.5 km away. Namibia—an adventure every day.
On Day 2, breakfast was served starting at 8 a.m. Afterward, we explored the area. There are two loop trails, one 3 km long and one 5.2 km long. Before setting out, you must check out at the lodge for safety reasons and then check back in later. We saw various animal tracks and lots of giraffes. There are currently 70 giraffes at Kuzikus.
After lunch (giraffe bolognese with rice, beets, and salad) at 1:00 p.m., we spent a lazy day in the sun watching the different animals.
Without breakfast, we set off at 7:00 a.m. with Berend for some rhino tracking. It was very cold, but there were actually warm blankets waiting for us in the open Land Rover. After a short drive, the two trackers began searching for a trail. And with a little patience, we were lucky enough to see the calf—just under two weeks old—with her mom, Juno. Amazing!
With even more patience, we found tracks from another rhino mom, Kenia, and her calf, who was about 3 years old. To continue following the tracks, we set off on foot through the Kalahari. We had to be very careful and quiet and always keep an eye on the wind so the rhino wouldn’t catch our scent. Unlike white rhinos, which you can approach to within 60 meters because they’re very docile, black rhinos are more aggressive, and if they catch your scent, they may very well charge at you, which can be dangerous.
That’s why we need to be extremely careful and keep a safe distance from these animals.
While Berend took a tea break with us, the two trackers continued searching for the rhinos. We hadn’t even finished yet when they radioed in and said they’d found the rhino and her calf. But we were told to cut our tea break short and move on immediately, since we were directly in the animal’s line of scent and it was already showing signs of nervousness because it had caught our scent. No sooner said than done, and then we, too, spotted the two of them lying in the grass. However, due to the distance and the tall grass, we could only observe them up close with binoculars. It wasn’t a good vantage point for taking photos.
It’s amazing that Berend and the Bushmen can identify the rhinos based on their footprints.
On an approximately 3-hour Bushman tour, Bushman Toi taught us how to read tracks. We learned to identify different types of footprints, how old they were, and which direction the animal had been running. We learned to identify the animal from its droppings, whether it was male or female, and how useful this knowledge can sometimes be. We learned which animals live in which burrows, how to tell if a burrow is still inhabited, and how to behave around large burrows. He dug up a scorpion for us and explained its danger, the consequences of a sting, and first aid.
He told us how the Bushmen make fire, hunt, and how they read “animal trails” to know where to find water. He also explained how to behave when facing danger from lions, and much more.
On the afternoon of the fourth day, it was time to say goodbye to the last couple on our safari trip. They were heading back home. We’d had a wonderful time not only on safari but also here at Kuzikus, and we’d shared many great experiences together.
On Day 5 in Kuzikus, we moved from the guest room to the bush camp.
There are a total of 3 tents, one of which is currently being used by a volunteer.
The bush camp is located just under 1.5 km from the farm, and during the day it was no problem to walk that distance. After dark, we weren’t allowed to walk, so after dinner we drove back with the volunteers and Ekkehard, an employee.
After the beautiful sunrise, we walked to breakfast every morning. We were always accompanied by wild horses, giraffes, kudus, oryx, springboks, impalas, various bird species, and other animals. Since we didn’t have Wi-Fi at the bush camp, we stayed at the farm for the first few hours after breakfast to browse the internet, WhatsApp, Instagram, and similar platforms a bit before walking the 1.5 km back.
On our terrace, we enjoyed the silence, the view, the sun, and the animals that occasionally ventured close to us.
At lunchtime, we walked back to the farm. Time and again, the staff reminded us that someone could give us a ride at any time. But we loved walking this path surrounded by the animals. We skipped teatime there, asked them to pack us some water in a thermos and tea bags, and then drank our tea back at our tent. Later, Alex stoked the stove to heat water for a shower, and as the sun set, we walked over for dinner.
The nights in the tent were very chilly, with temperatures ranging from 1 to 5°C. Berend and Fritz, the junior managers; Hildrud, the senior manager; the cook; Samuel, the kitchen assistant; the housekeeper; the volunteers; and Ekkehard all looked after our well-being. They provided us with extra blankets, hot water bottles, and hot water for tea during the night and in the morning. At night, we heard animals prowling around the tent, the neighing of wild horses, and the calls of impalas, and even before the sun rose, we could see the dawn from our beds.
We enjoyed a relaxing week on Kuzikus.
After six nights at Kuzikus, we had to say goodbye to our Namibian adventure with a heavy heart.
But before the taxi took us on the nearly 3-hour ride to Windhoek Airport around 2:00 p.m., we enjoyed breakfast and lunch one last time.
Even the first few days in Namibia at Claudia’s Casa Piccolo were a great start. The safari with Dieter was indescribably beautiful. We were also incredibly lucky with our group—they were truly wonderful. We’ll carry some of them in our hearts for a long time to come.
Our time at Kuzikus went by way too fast. The family-like atmosphere and sharing meals with Berend, Fritz, the volunteers, and Ekkehard were always a joy. We all got to know each other a bit and learned interesting things about Kuzikus. The game drives, the Bushman tour, and the rhino tracking were all fantastic, and the entire team—including the always cheerful cook and Salomon from the kitchen, as well as the Bushmen who work on the farm and sometimes joined us on the excursions—were incredibly friendly and made it hard for us to say goodbye.
A heartfelt thank you goes out to Dieter, our safari guide—we had an unforgettable time and the food was always delicious 😉
We’d also like to thank Alina, who we were in contact with beforehand during the planning and booking process, for the wonderful and seamless experience.
Many thanks also to the entire Kuzikus team, especially Berend, who was always there for us. A big thank you to Hildrud and the wonderful chef—they always made sure we were well taken care of. Thanks to the two volunteers and to Ekkehard—it was great getting to know you all, and thank you for giving us such a great insight into your time at Kuzikus.
A huge thank you to my parents, who took us to Munich Airport right on time and drove out in the middle of the night to pick us up again.
And we’d also like to say thank you to all of you.
Thank you for your interest in our adventures and for always reading our posts so diligently and traveling with us.
Thank you for your comments, your kind words, your advice, and your tips.
Now our Namibia adventure has come to an end, and soon there will be new—and hopefully exciting—experiences that we’ll share with you. Right now, we’re getting our WENNE ready for its vehicle inspection and taking care of a few cosmetic repairs. We’ll tell you all about that in our next post, which is scheduled for August 1, 2026. Until then, enjoy life and take care of yourselves!
