Day 6: Khowarib Area (approx. 150 km)
After refueling at Palmwag, we continued north. Unfortunately, the Khowarib Gorge still had too much water flowing through it following the heavy rains in March and April. So we had to find an alternative route and drove along other beautiful but bumpy trails. We drove over rocks, sand, and grass. We crossed riverbeds, driving right through the middle of them, and then climbed steep slopes where, once again, we all preferred to walk because of the bumpy ride, while the drivers had a blast.
Although cattle ranching is the predominant activity in this region, there is still plenty of open space for springboks, oryx, kudu, ostriches, and giraffes. This area is also known as the “Little Serengeti.”
We saw plenty of fresh tracks from elephants, giraffes, and lions, but unfortunately, they didn’t want to show themselves to us—or maybe the lions were just hiding in the tall grass.
However, in addition to springboks and zebras, we spotted our first giraffes in the distance.
Although Dieter didn’t have a good feeling about driving through the Khowarib riverbed, we tried our luck anyway. After spending our lunch break in the riverbed, we drove on just a short distance—until Alex slipped into the deep sand and got stuck.
So Dieter’s concerns were justified. Once Alex was freed, our only option was to get out of the riverbed, and we set up camp for the night amid the footprints and droppings of elephants and lions. Our guide’s advice—to avoid the bushes and go only behind the tent when using the restroom at night because of the fresh lion tracks—wasn’t exactly reassuring for some of us.
After yet another delicious meal prepared by Dieter—kudu meat, butterblood squash, rice, and salad—we fell asleep to the hooting of owls and the chirping of grasshoppers.
A few more impressions:
Day 7: Opuwo Country Lodge – (approx. 250 km)
On Day 7, we looked for a route that was easier to drive on. Herero tribes have settled in this part of Damaraland to practice pastoralism. We drove north along winding paths and arrived in Opuwo in the afternoon.
Opuwo is the largest town in the region and therefore an important supply stop before we head back into the wilderness. There’s a large supermarket there where we restocked our supplies. In this town, we saw both poor people and people with money. Even the Himba people are present here.
Opuwo, which means “the end” in Herero, is located in the northwestern Kunene Region of Namibia. It serves as the region’s capital and is known as the gateway to the magnificent Epupa Falls. The surrounding landscape is characterized by low-lying hills and vast, arid desert plains inhabited by a wealth of desert-adapted wildlife. It serves as a central hub of Himba culture. The town of Opuwo and its surroundings are renowned as one of the cultural highlights of a trip to Namibia, as they boast an incredibly rich cultural heritage
We stayed at a beautiful lodge (Opuwo Country Lodge), which is situated on a hill just outside Opuwo. From here, you have a fabulous view of the rolling hills of the Kaokoland. When we arrived at the lodge, the first thing we had to do was refill our drinking water tank on the car. After we checked into our room, we took a shower, and then we enjoyed the great weather, the amazing view, and the pool with a traditional Rock Shandy.
I’d like to say a big thank you to Wolfgang, Jörg, and Andi for the creative gifts they gave me for my birthday. You guys are the best ;-).
Also, a big thank you to Jörg and Katrin for the delicious Amarula we had that evening at the lodge.
Here are a few more impressions from the day:
Carved into it is the date 1941. Today, it is at a height that can no longer be reached.
Day 8: Van Zyls Pass (approx. 150 km)
We continued on toward the northwest. The Ovahimba’s grazing lands are located in this region, so we kept coming across their settlements. We had barely stopped anywhere when several of them came running over.
We also passed by a Himba burial site today. For quite some time now, these have no longer been truly traditional. They once served not only as burial sites but were also essential places for ancestor worship and for connecting people, the land, and livestock.
Cow skulls were often piled high on the graves of respected figures (such as chiefs). These symbols represented the status and wealth that the deceased possessed during their lifetime.
Today, this tradition is fading, and more and more, you see actual gravestones. Nowadays, the larger the gravestone, the more important the deceased is considered to have been.
There was also an opportunity to come into contact with the tribes and learn about their way of life.
The route continued through the mountains, and we had to navigate numerous riverbeds and clearings. At the settlement of Otjitanda, we turned west to reach—after only a short drive the next day—the pass of all passes: Van Zyl’s Pass.
Today’s route was very challenging. There were steep sections both uphill and downhill. Time and again, we had to inspect sections of the trail before driving and, if necessary, clear them of rocks to make them passable.
Alex was clearly having fun, and the anticipation for the big pass the next morning was huge.
At an altitude of over 900 meters, we pitched our tents for the night and enjoyed a breathtaking view of the vast landscape, the Mariental Valley, and the golden eagles. Once again, we slept in our sleeping bags under the starry sky and watched the blood-red moon set.
View of the Marienfluss Valley from our campsite:
More highlights from Day 8:
The mopane tree has an extremely wide range of uses and is considered a true “tree of life” in its native habitat. Its uses range from extremely durable lumber to traditional medicine and protein extraction.
The wood is naturally resistant to termites and weathering. It is frequently used for building houses, mine supports, and durable fences, and is often referred to as African ironwood.
In addition, mopane wood is considered excellent firewood and is processed locally into high-quality charcoal.
The leaves serve as animal feed (especially during dry seasons). Furthermore, the mopane caterpillar (Masonja) is native to the region; when fried or dried, it is an extremely protein-rich food source for the local population.
In traditional medicine, the leaves of the mopane tree are used by local people to heal wounds and relieve skin rashes or infections. Extracts from the bark or leaves serve as a natural remedy for stomachaches and indigestion. Crushed leaves are often applied topically to reduce pain and inflammation. In many regions, the tree’s branches are traditionally used as natural toothbrushes, as the wood is considered antibacterial. In addition, the leaves contain essential oils similar to those found in eucalyptus or turpentine, which are traditionally inhaled to clear the airways. Locals also use the seed to treat respiratory ailments by breaking it open and inserting it into the nose.
Day 9: Marienfluss – (approx. 80 km)
Among off-road enthusiasts, Van Zyl’s Pass is a route spoken of with almost reverential awe.
That’s because it’s a notorious mountain pass in the Kaokoveld region of northwestern Namibia. The trail stretches for about 10 kilometers along a winding route, connecting the Kaokoveld Plateau with the Marienfluss Valley. It is suitable exclusively for experienced off-road drivers and is typically only permitted to be driven from east to west. Since the driving fun is mainly limited to the drivers and the rest of us passengers tend to get jostled around, it was recommended for us to hike down the route, enjoy the scenery, and take some nice photos. Of course, there were also plenty of opportunities for action photos and videos. Alex and the other driver had great respect for this route. Dieter gave excellent instructions; time and again, we had to build a path with rocks to avoid getting stuck or hitting the ground too hard. Despite the challenging route—or perhaps precisely because of it—Alex and Andi were clearly having a great time. Dieter was very pleased with his two drivers. It didn’t always go so smoothly. Britta and I were also proud of our men.
Once we were back down below the pass, everyone got back on the bus, and we continued on into the Marienfluß Valley.
On the banks of the Kunene River, we found a nice campsite where we pitched our tents (Marienfluss Kaokoland) in the shade of huge anaba trees. We enjoyed the showers and appreciated the restrooms.
Swimming in the Kunene River—which, by the way, also serves as the border between Namibia and Angola—is not really advisable, since crocodiles make their home there.
After dinner, we enjoyed the view of the river in the beautiful moonlight, while bats flitted between our legs.
Before going to sleep, we had to lock the cars securely and take all our valuables into the tent, since Angolans had raided the camp on several occasions by simply crossing the crocodile-infested river in their dugout canoes.
That night, however, it remained quiet.
The Marienfluss Valley is located in the far northwest of Namibia’s Kunene Region and is traversed by the beautiful Kunene River. The valley is best known for its mysterious “fairy circles”: A fairy circle is a phenomenon that can be observed primarily in dry grasslands in southern Africa. These are vegetation-free, roughly circular bare patches in the middle of grassy areas—rings in the sand ranging from two to 20 meters in diameter, bordered by grass.
It is believed that the circles were created by termites, while a local Himba legend tells the story of a dragon that blows fiery blisters from the ground. Although they are still being studied scientifically, there is still no scientific explanation for their formation.
Unfortunately, we were unable to take pictures from above, so only one circle is visible in the photo. In reality, there are quite a few circles in this area.
Day 10: Marienfluss & Hartmann Valley – (approx. 200 km)
The plan for today was actually just to drive a short distance south through the Marienfluss Valley and then take a secret pass that only a few guides use. As a self-driver, you rarely end up here, and this route isn’t permitted for rental vehicles. According to the locals, this pass is unfortunately impassable right now due to the heavy rains of the past few months, so we had to drive back nearly 30 km through the Marienfluss Valley and then take a different route leading us into the Hermann Valley. Here, the landscape is already quite desert-like, as we’re very close to the Skeleton Coast.
The breathtakingly remote Hartmann Valley is a desolate yet enchanting lunar landscape of sand and rock. The region lies in the far northwest of Namibia and offers a profound sense of wilderness and an unusual juxtaposition of habitats, as the Kunene River nourishes a strip of lush vegetation in the midst of one of the driest deserts on Earth, while sea mist creeps in from the coast and waves glide over sand dunes
So today we also had a varied drive over rocky trails, sand, and grass. We drove through green and parched grass, or sometimes there was nothing but earth or rocks around us, in a wide variety of colors. You could say that at times it was pleasant to look at and at other times desolate. But still breathtakingly beautiful!
We found a great spot to camp for the night in Hartmann Valley, surrounded by white trees.
I took the opportunity right away to get a bird’s-eye view 😉
That evening, Dieter cooked up some oryx meat over an open fire, served with rice and pumpkin, and our salad dream team—Andi and Jörg—took care of the salad once again.
On the way here, we passed this flowering bottle tree.
This species has a thickened, bottle-shaped trunk that serves as a water reservoir and is often covered with sharp spines. The sap is highly toxic and was historically used by local hunters as arrow poison.
The Himba, one of Africa’s last true nomadic peoples, live in the valley. Not every village is happy when tourists stop by and stare at these people. But after we stopped and chatted with them a bit (using gestures and body language), Dieter brought them some meat—since we had plenty of it—and we handed out cookies and other items, we were allowed to look around, ask questions, and take photos. The round huts where they sleep—usually several people together—are very small. Some have sleeping bags or blankets and a change of clothes, all of which come from donations.
They make their own bowls, jugs, spoons, etc. They collected their drinking water in a motorcycle gas tank, and just as we arrived, a cow was being milked and the milk was being warmed over the fire.
It’s unimaginable for us to live like that. But these Himba people don’t know any different; they were very open, explained a lot to us, were thrilled to see themselves in our photos, and were grateful for the small gifts they received from us.
Time and again, we came across old barrels in the remote Kaokoveld. They serve as essential landmarks in the vast, roadless desert of sand and rock that is the Hartmann Valley. Since cell phone reception, road signs, and GPS maps are often lacking here, travelers and guides have placed oil barrels of different colors at strategic waypoints. Each color has a different meaning. The green barrel marks the start of the sandy trail leading up to the Hartmann Valley viewpoint, as well as the turnoff to the east. It is essential to lower tire pressure here. The orange/red barrel indicates the difficult, rocky route through the rocky valley and challenging tributaries. The trails between these barrels are often rocky, requiring special care with the tires. The blue barrel serves as another intermediate marker in the rocky and sandy dune landscape.
We passed by these barrels, some of which are imaginatively decorated.
Some Himba people try to sell their handmade items—such as jewelry, cooking spoons, decorations, etc.—at places like these. I bought two bracelets made from dyed pumpkin seeds and other seeds.
In between, we also had to gather firewood for our dinner, to create a cozy campfire atmosphere, and for breakfast
