From Maultaschen in the north to Sambuca in Sterzing to freedom with a view of the sea.
Another night staying with friends in Germany
We had actually planned to head south slowly on the first day of September. But things usually turn out differently than you expect. So we spent one more day with our dear friends and helped them out a little with their many tasks.
Alex was out with our friend this afternoon, while I actually took some time to myself at WENNE.
Do you know that feeling when you just need some time to yourself? I was a little surprised by it, because that’s not something I usually do. So I enjoyed my time alone and got a head start on dinner. And when the two of them come over for dinner, it’s Swabian cuisine. So in the morning, I quickly popped over to the nearby farm stand to pick up some vegetables and made some delicious Alblinsen with roasted Maultaschen. And for dessert, we had Kaiserschmarrn. Britta even chipped in with a few ingredients we didn’t have on hand.
It was our last evening together.
Here in the north, it had been very cloudy and cool for days, so it was really time for us to move on and head toward our destination, Italy.
First Stop in Franconia: Storks & Art in Herrieden
In Herrieden, Franconia, near Ansbach, we found a place to stay in a charming little town.
Herrieden’s landmark is the striking Storchenturm tower. It was built in 1340 and was once an integral part of Herrieden’s medieval city fortifications. The tower owes its name to the white storks, which have been building their nests on the tower’s spire year after year in the spring for generations and raising their young there. The tower has a steep gable roof and formerly served as a defensive tower as well as a gatekeeper’s house to control access at the Altmühl Bridge.
The Collegiate Basilica of Herrieden
The historic Herrieden Monastery was founded in 797 on the Altmühl River. Over the centuries, it evolved from a Carolingian monastery into a collegiate chapter. The chapter was dissolved in 1804.
The former collegiate church now serves as the town’s Catholic parish church and holds the title of minor basilica.
In today’s Bürgerpark, the former monastery garden, there is a sculpture trail that symbolizes significant eras and figures in the city’s history. What makes this project—a collaboration between the city and the Herrieder Altstadtfreunde—so special is that it features “art you can touch and experience”—the objects created by artist Cornelia Königsperger are explicitly meant to be used and owned.
Each of the seven sculptures represents a specific historical theme. Let us introduce you to four of them:
Cross-Border Travel and a Huge Coincidence in Sterzing
Just before crossing into Austria, we picked up an Austrian Go toll box. With our 7.5-metric-ton vehicle, a regular vignette isn’t enough—we need this toll box. We actually planned to pull into a parking spot shortly after, but it was already full. Alex simply suggested that we drive on to Sterzing and look for a spot there. No sooner said than done, and before we’d even properly pulled into our spot, Alex told me he’d seen our friends from East Frisia driving by. I immediately grabbed my phone and called our friend. It really was them, and just minutes later they’d pulled into the parking spot next to us. What a coincidence! It was once again a huge joy to see the two of them and their dog Xipeta again, and of course we spent the rest of that day and the next day together.
But, as has become a tradition for us—no matter where we are or what time it is—we started off with a Sambuca to welcome us. The owner of the campsite gave us a package of durum wheat gnocchi as a gift. A wonderful gesture, we think.
After two wonderful days with our friends, everyone went their separate ways. For us, the journey continued further south through Italy.
Culture and Ocean Views in Emilia-Romagna
We stayed overnight in the town of Bagnara di Romania, in the Ravenna region.
Before setting off the next day, we took a walk through the town.
“La Porta del Paese” is the historic city gate
of Bagnara di Romania in the Ravenna region.
The Archpriest’s Church, Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni Battista e Andrea Apostolo (Church of Saints John the Baptist and Andrew the Apostle)
In the center of the town of Bagnara di Romagna, in the province of Ravenna, stands the Rocca di Bagnara, a medieval fortress. It is the only fully preserved medieval castle in Emilia-Romagna with intact city walls and a moat. The square, brick fortress features a large keep and defensive towers.
In Sogliano al Rubicone, still in the Emilia-Romagna region, we found a great free parking spot with a view of the sea in the distance. We stayed here for 3 nights.
After we’d eaten something and our siesta was over, we walked up to the village center. It wasn’t far, but it was very steep. So our first stop was a bar. Once we’d rested, we took a short stroll through the village.
Time and again, we couldn’t help but marvel at this beautiful view. On one side were the mountains, and on the other, the Mediterranean Sea.
Before we headed back to WENNE, we stopped at the only little village store—which had just about everything you need to survive—and picked up a few things for a small picnic the next day.
We had planned a round-trip hike of about 13 kilometers.
That evening, well into the night, we were treated to live music from the village, which was bustling with activity just above our campsite.
Hiking is never boring: Cursing, struggling, but we made it!
The next day: Hiking is never boring.
First, you walk for kilometers downhill, completely relaxed.
Then we took a wrong turn, and we had to figure out where we were on the road to somehow get back on track.
When we finally found it, the marked trail followed a path that nature had long since reclaimed.
And to top it all off, there was a grueling 20% incline workout for my lungs.
20%, 2 km straight uphill.
I cursed, I fought, and I made it!
We’ve more than earned this break—including this amazing view.
A few more impressions:
Our Discovery: The 5-Cent Water Vending Machine
A little discovery on our vacation in Italy:
The water vending machine!
You never stop learning: Here’s a vending machine that dispenses fresh, filtered, cold drinking water for 5 cents per liter. If you like it fizzy, you pay 10 cents per liter for sparkling water. A super sustainable and affordable idea that we’ve never seen before! Of course, we had to try out this machine right away. Alex took a big gulp and was thrilled (even if his reaction is a bit over the top) 😉
We decided to fill up our empty 5-liter jugs with this water the next day. Highly recommended!
